Sunday, 26 September 2010

Day 17 - Too many bubbles!

Well as I mentioned in yesterday's update, we're now staying at the Intercontinental Hotel in Almaty and I can honestly say that you can never have too many bubbles in your bath or in your champagne!

We spent all today giving Fugly the once-over and found that the offside king-pin is very worn.  We've decided to leave it for the time being and pack it daily with grease and consider a change in Turkey or Iran dependant on the wear rate.

Yet again I had to adjust the brakes and this time even the professional assistance found that the brakes are not running true, meaning we both look like nodding dogs as the brakes grab and release as we come to a halt .... good for the neck muscles!  (and probably for re-effervescing the bubbles from the previous night ... Peter)

The spigot bush has once again broken free and whilst we have a replacement that was sent from Autosportif in the UK, I have decided to leave it alone for the time being.   Thanks to Mark Owen of Owen Motorsport in Oxfordshire for his opinion which played a significant part in the decision process and allowed me to concentrate the rest of the day on general maintenance, such as gearbox oil top-up, engine oil, fuel filter changes, air-filter cleaning, spanner checking and those bloody brakes!  (for your sake, Clive, I hope that you have been scrupulously following Ces' laminated check list ... Peter)

As I type, it's 5.30pm here and I've finally finished ... having started at 8.30am this morning.   It's been a long, hot, dirty day ... but now my thoughts are turning to beer!

Tomorrow is another rest day and I intend to have a day away from that bloody car and make use of the hotel pool instead!

We leave at 6.00am on Tuesday and the carnage will start once again as we head through Kazakstan and into Uzbekistan which, apparently, has a fuel shortage.   To slightly misquote what Confucius would have said "we will be living through interesting times"!

CD & Ces

PS.  I miss my Dad

(PPS:  I've no doubt that your Dad is having a great time watching your antics.  And I doubt that he has any trouble with wi-fi connections or Russian interfaces getting his updates ... Peter)

Saturday, 25 September 2010

A pictorial record of westward progress by Clive, Ces and Fugly.

To make it easy for you readers, the photos are in chronological order from top to bottom ... I know how everyone hates having to read from bottom to top ... it's just not intuitive in our imperial culture.

So going back to Day something or other, here we have ....


Rush hour on Mongolia's M1

Fugly disgorging its contents for transfer to the Yurt

High density living in Mongolia

Not bad eh ... if only we weren't so tired to enjoy it

Nice line of pinafores out here ...

Fugly in full flight ... or was it a stoppage ... because it seems uninhabited!!


Nice photo of Ces ... but who's that bloke with the 'tache? ... let's zoom in a bit

Hmmm ... still no idea ... I hope that Ces knows what she's doing!


Heeya ... circle the wagons ... hide the womenfolk!


Clive says that this is somewhere ... oh, ok ... that narrows down the options.



Presumably this is "somewhere else" ... but with snow on them thar hills!

Right ... now pay attention ... this is where the quiz section starts ... especially for all you mechanicals types reading the blog.

Identify the part of the car ... and the problem

Suggest a mechanical benefit achieved by the finger action ...
and what part of the car needed the said benefit ... and why?


Is Ces sweeping the floor of Fugly ... or about to blow a poison dart at Louis Chevrolet?
(for a bonus point, when did Chevrolet ban the Chevy abbreviation?)

Now we are moving from the mechanical category of the quiz to the managerial category ...

What is the motivational benefit of having a scruffy Managing Director standing around grinning?


What is good project management?   (hint: "the early bird catches the worm")
The question is:   Was the bird a little too early for breakfast?



Clive provides a locational clue to the answer of this picture ... he says that it is in the middle of nowhere.
I wonder if nowhere is anywhere near somewhere.


Clive says that this was Wash-Day.  
The question is:   Was this photo taken before washing or after washing?

Ok, that's the end of the quiz.   Now let's get back to the human interest aspects of the P2P, especially those aspects that involve pain and suffering.

I know that's frost on the car ... but it's only a short run to the outdoor showers
... here, don't forget your ladle!!
Let's smile for the camera ... even if we are suffering
... because this the very last night in a tent.

These were my favourite gloves ... and see what the gearchanging has done to the left one
... I wonder what "glove" is in Russian!

and the final photo ... Clive is moving into his truly artistic phase ... because he labeled this photo as Man on Bike ...
Man on Bike
... if you could just put the man in formaldehyde and pretend you were related to Damien Hirst ... you could sell that photo for £1000's.


PS:  For those of you who were curious about the banning of the name Chevy, I can confirm that Chevrolet banned the use of the term Chevy in June 2010.   Seriously.   But after getting a pasting in the press and by Chevy owners, Chevrolet revoked their decision.

Day 16 - Where do I start?


Probably with a big thanks to Peter Horan for keeping the blog alive during my very extended periods offline in the middle of nowhere. 

I've uploaded some photos from the route so far, but the stay in the yurt seems an age ago.   Tonight we're in a 5-star hotel in a place called Almaty in Kazakhstan and it really is a very welcome respite from camping and shitty hotels along the way!

The camping in Mongolia was great with all meals provided by a company called Nomads.  They built showers, toilets and even a beer tent, although the beer tent usually ran dry after it sold 10 bottles!

When I would go for a call of nature at 4am, the view was spectacular.   With -10C, no clouds and no light pollution, the stars were amazing.   I could see more stars than I thought possible ... it was truly magical.

The people have nothing of material value out here and yet they are so friendly.    No stone throwing (as was common in North Africa) and no begging.   They are so dignified and so generous with what they have.   They are fascinated by the cars as well as by us in person, because we tower over them.    Apparently we all look the same!

The Russians have also been approachable and the police are very keen to get a photo of the car but not for a speed prosecution!

We're both tired and our overalls are filthy, so much so that even other competitors have commented!!    But then again we don't have a change of clothes for every night!!

We now have 2 rest days in Almaty and tomorrow we'll prepare the car so that it's for the next long haul.   But at the moment, Fugly is running well.   As of today, we're 12th overall and 9th in class ... not bad considering that on day 1, we broke down and dropped to 43rd place!    

Our aim is still to make Paris rather than the podium, but there are some timed stages in Iran and I am looking to use them to improve our position.    Realistically the early breakdown cost us a top 3 place, but I am still pushing for a top 5!

It's a long way still to go ... 4 more weeks ....  a lot can still go wrong ... but a lot can also go right!

Clive & Ces

Friday, 24 September 2010

Day 15 - "it's a bit like Glastonbury!"

That's exactly what Clive said to me today ... it's a bit like Glastonbury.   So I raised my eyebrows (I can't do one eyebrow like Roger Moore) and asked:

"which aspect of Glastonbury ... did you have music?"
"... well, no!"
" ... did you have mud?"
" ... well, no!   ... and we didn't have argumentative ghosts either!!"

BTW, it was the open spaces and the dust that he had in mind ...

As you can probably tell, Clive of Kazakhstan was in fine form today.   The car ran like a dream, once he got it moving (see later).   The distance was long, but the Chevy was very happy powering along the empty highways once it was given copious amounts of good fuel.   They were the 2nd car to arrive at Usharal, tonight's camping ground, not far behind their nemesis in the yellow Chevy.   (Hmmm, Clive would be happy ... Peter)

All of the people along the way were very friendly.  Even the police, who keep a very tight rein on speeding in Kazakhstan, were friendly to those cars that were pulled over for speeding.   Clive was pulled over for doing 68 kph in a 60 zone, so we're talking Swiss or Australian little-or-no tolerance.  Nobody seems to know why Kazakhstan has decided on such a tight speeding regime, but it is such that the P2P has no timed stages in any part of the country.   (Hmmm ... no timed sections ... friendly police ... I wonder what Clive has been smoking to have him in such good spirits ... Peter)

From a purely competitive point of view, this is all good news for Clive ... because it means miles and miles of highway speeds ... for which the Chevy is entirely suitable.   Well, more suitable than all those old and quirky cars and especially more than the old British cars which were only designed to last till the next pub.

But let me get back to the reality of the P2P ... and especially the accommodation.    This morning, they awoke at the Gulag Hotel and went to have their first proper shower of the week.   You know that this isn't going to go well, don't you.   The initial moments of the shower were quite pleasant, but the more the shower delivered hot water to flow down the hole, the more the sewage system provided warm, well, err, emm, dark lumpy stuff to bubble its way up from the same hole.  What followed was a sort of spread-eagle posture ... standing on the raised sides of the shower base ... with head leaned forward to get some water from the non-adjustable shower-head.

Not surprisingly, Clive is quite clear that he'd take camping any day over a hotel in the this part of the world.   Yes, you read that correctly .... Clive would rather sleep in a tent than in a hotel.  

Mind you, the camping is quite entertaining as well.   For the outdoor shower at the camping area, they are provided with canvas cubicles ... and a ladle.   The idea is that you ladle the shower water over yourself ... as if you were basting a turkey.   Needless to say, everyone is dreaming of the Intercontinental Hotel in Almaty tomorrow night ... so it'd better be good.

Before I forget, let me come back and explain my earlier remark about "once they got it moving".   In Clive's enthusiasm after his deft repair work yesterday, he over-adjusted the brakes to the degree that the car wouldn't move away at all this morning.   An initial cold chill was followed by sniggers and laughter ... after a quick adjustment in the opposite direction, the Chevy pulled away quite smartly.

Finally an amusing anecdote related to the Kazak who greeted Clive with "ello mate!" in fluent English and with a local London accent.   Clive asked if he'd been working in London.   No, he'd never been overseas, but he learned English in school and used to watch TV to improve it.
"From TV, really!   Which shows did you watch?"  asked Clive.
"Eastenders" replied the man.


For and on behalf of CD and Ces

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PS:  As I mentioned, all crews will be sleeping at the Almaty Intercontinental tomorrow night.   For their sake, I hope that the reality of the hotel is not still "coming soon" .... as the images on their site suggest.



Thursday, 23 September 2010

Day 14 - Where locals glow in the dark!

Late breaking excitement ... Car 72 gets its photo taken ... and posted on the official P2P website ... if you listen really carefully ... you can just hear Clive shout ... "now, now, pull up the hand-brake!!"
Clive Dunster and Cecilia Agger - Chevrolet Fangio Coupe
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Today was a very long transport leg ... as Clive put it "mile after mile after mile after mile through nowhere" finally reaching Semey in Eastern Kazakhstan.   On the positive side, the day was uneventful and the border crossing from Russia into Kazakhstan was a dream ... taking only one hour in total.  

Unfortunately, the car run like a pig all day ... virtually no brakes ... virtually no gears ... and a throttle that kept jamming wide open.    Just as well that there were no timed stages ... although the jamming throttle might have given Fugly some inspirational times.

Once they arrived at the hotel (of which more later), he set about trying to fix some of these problems.   As soon as he stepped out of the car, he noticed the puddle of oil.   No, not another problem.   Of course, when in doubt about what to do, always but always, open the bonnet and stare intently at whatever is in there ... whether or you have any idea of what to do.

In this case, looking under the bonnet was an inspired decision ... because it was quite obvious to our driver/mechanic that an oil pipe related to the airfilter has become detached.   Not only was it spewing oil everywhere, but it was sitting on the throttle preventing the return spring from doing it job.   Fantastic, two apparently serious problems fixed in a matter of moments.

Encouraged by such a feat of engineering brilliance, Clive of Kazakhstan moved onto the brakes, the fixing of which was a simple matter of adjustment.   So life is very good at the end of today ... and beers are in order.

Which brings us back to the hotel, called Hotel Nomad.  Clive described it as "quite special ... quite unbelievable ... like social housing ... with no bar, no restaurant".   Apparently they have to head to a cafe down the road for something to eat ... just as well that this wasn't last night when crews were arriving, hungry and tired, for many hours after midnight.   Oh, and the cars are just parked on the street.

Needless to say, there's no wi-fi, so photos will have to wait until they get to Almaty on Saturday evening.   In Almaty, they're all booked into the Intercontinental Hotel, so they're assured of all luxuries including wi-fi.   They might even be able to charge their drinks to their room.   And they have 2 whole restdays in Almaty.

For and on behalf of CD and Ces


PS:  But before we leave today's adventure, let me explain an interesting feature of the Semey region that Clive didn't mention in his despatch.   In case I didn't get an update from Clive today, I had done a bit of reading about that part of Kazakhstan, so that I would have something to say to you readers (although as an Irishman, that should never pose a problem).  

I discovered that Kurchatov, a town some 160 kms west of Semey, is much more famous (or infamous) than Semey.   Kurchatov was the ultra-secret city where all Soviet-era nuclear testing took place.   It was named after the USSR's nuclear physicist who was leading the development of nuclear weapons.


Igor Kurchatov ... friendly looking chap, don't you think

Between 1949 and 1989, 456 nuclear tests (340 underground, 116 in the atmospheric) took place here.   Is it any wonder that there are few tourist facilities in Semey.   It problably also explains why the cars are just parked on the street ... their headlights will probably stay alight all night ... of their own accord.  And they'll be easy to find in the morning!!

Wednesday, 22 September 2010

Day 13 - To Russia with Love ... eventually

I wasn't anticipating much of a report from Clive today because I knew that it was going to be a really long day.   But, according to the official site, the day was even longer than everyone feared.   Not only were there interminable delays at the border, but an extra 120 kms was added to the route by the local authorities.

Car No 72 was not mentioned in the official despatch, so we can only assume that they had no mechanical mishaps.   All the same, I suspect that words were few and far between inside the car as exhaustion started to make a comback.   But at least they can look forward to the comforts of a Russian resort hotel and especially to that wonderful herbal decoction.

ring, ring ... ring, ring ... gotta go ... it might be Clive of the Orient
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Yes it was Clive.   It was just coming up for 1:00am in his part of Russia ... and he was sitting on the side of the bed ... waiting to get into it (the bed that is).
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As anticipated above, today was a bit of a nightmare from an organisational point of view.   Clive was quite cross that the organisers had scheduled over 500 km on the same day as a border crossing.   Everybody knows that border crossings in this part of the world are a nightmare, so the organisers should not schedule lots and lots of driving as well.   

As it was, Clive arrived at the hotel after midnight but fortunately the hotel chefs had kept a buffet warm for the participants so that they could get a quick bite to eat before shuteye.   Getting a beer was a different problem because Clive had spent his meagre supply of roubles on fuel, and the hotel wouldn't allow him to charge a beer to his room.   So he had to organise a one-man rouble whip-around among his competitors for the price of a beer or, more accurately, for the price of several beers.

But I've gotten ahead of myself.  Let's roll back to Mongolia.   First wake up was at 3:00am ... to put on the longjohns and anything else he could find in the tent.  Their campsite was at 2,600 metres (that's about 8,000 feet for those of you still in imperial times) and the temperature was -10C (only the Americans won't understand Centigrade and Celsius so they'll have to look up the conversion themselves).   After the customary de-icing of the cars, and of the bodies in the outdoor shower, they drove the 18 km to the Mongolian-Russian border.  Where they waited ... and waited ... and waited ... for 4 hours.   Eventually, they fired up the cars and moved the short distance across no-mans land to the Russian side.   Where the wait was almost as long ... only 3 hours ... but more good-humoured.

By now much of the day had already passed and they still had some 700 km to cover ... meaning that many many kilometres had to be driven in darkness.   And did I mention without brakes?   Yes, there's a problem with the brakes, which Clive intends to sort out during the 2-day break in Almaty, whenever that it (eh, Clive, that'd be on Sunday and Monday ... Peter).   Meanwhile, the footbrake delivers about 5-10% of what it should, so Ces is helping out by using the handbrake whenever Clive shouts loudly enough.

Oh, and the headlights are still set for UK roads, so they're not doing a good job of picking out the cows that seem to be everywhere.   But they do light up the cows that are in the middle of the road ... in which case Clive shouts loudly ... and Ces uses both hands to yank up the handbrake.

The gear selection is still proving to be a little of a nuisance ... double de-clutching is required most of the time ... and the throttle is sticking somewhat.    Well, not so much sticking as becoming very non-linear.   This is thought to be a consequence of the conversion from US LHD to South African RHD (where the car itself was sourced).   Apparently everything goes from the pedals through to the engine bay on the RHS, and is then hooked across to the LHS by a series of rods and pulleys, from where it resumes its course as if it were a LHD car.   (I wish I had a picture of this ... a Willy-Wonka-built Chevy ... Peter).

Despite the litany of woes, Clive is clearly getting the hang of the car because he reported that he's getting the arse out much more often, and with considerable confidence in the consequences.   He's also lifted the speed considerably.   For the first time in days, he's been able to get proper petrol and the impact of the higher octane is spectacular.   130 kph is the order of the day where just over 100 kph was the best hope in Mongolia.

They're also continuing to climb their way up the leadership board but the climb is getting tougher.   After his problems at the beginning of the rally, he was seeded down with some very slow drivers, so he wasted a lot of time overtaking the fuddy-duddies.   How he's among drivers of a similar calibre, in equally quick cars, so while there's less overtaking to be done, each overtake is that much harder.

With lots of days still to go, and the occasional overtake along the way, Clive is confident that they can continue clawing their way back up the board, at least as far as the position they had before their problems started.

I can't give you their overall positions yet because they're not available, and I suspect that the officials have already gone to bed (it's now about 2:00am their time).  

I hope they sleep well, because I suspect that tomorrow will be another late finish.   Officially the distance is 548 kms ... but there also another border crossing ... this time from Russia to Kazakhstan.

For and on behalf of
CD and Ces

PS:   Clive said that he has sprouted a considerable beard, so I demanded a photograph.  Actually I'd like lots of photos, but one should be of the growth.

Tuesday, 21 September 2010

Day 12 - "Please show our positions on the blog"

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Late update on leaderboard:  
(WARNING:  Before you draw any conclusions, please read the footnote at the end of the blog on the interpretation of positions)

According to official results, Car 72 is still 15th overall and 9th in class.   The ghost's re-interpretation of the results suggests that Car 72 has moved from 24th overall to 23rd overall.  Now go and read the classifications footnote..
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In today's satellite link, Clive remarked (again) that the mornings are incredibly cold ... that all of the cars are iced over ... and that one of the more challenging aspects (presumably to his manhood) was that the showers, while good and hot, are outdoor!!!  

Tonight is their last night in a tent for a few days, which would have cheered them up if they'd realised it.   It seems, however, that their time-window is limited to the previous hour and the next hour because Clive was not sure of his accommodation for Wednesday night, other than that it would be in Russia.

Fugly seemed to be running well today and the only reported issue was with a rear wheel bearing.  

Clive  wasn't sure of their competitive positions but felt that he was still moving up the pack.  Then Clive asked if I could report their class and overall positions each day on the blog ... and that he'd telephone through the precise positions when he got them later.

Now, does that sound like the request of a man who is cruising to the finish in Paris!!   Nope, I didn't think so either.   But it did sound like our man Clive.   If you'd like to know their leaderboard positions, just continue reading ... there's a little essay on the scoring at the foot of this Update.

Tomorrow, Day 13, they have a short 18 kms to the Russian Border, an unknown duration at the border itself, and then over 550 kms before they reach their hotel tomorrow evening in a place called Belokurikha.   Looking at GoogleEarth, that 550 kms will not be pleasant, but at least they can look forward the comforts of a Russian resort hotel.  

I'm sure that you know this already, but Belokuikha is at the foot of the Altai mountains and is famous in Russia for its thermal springs.   I quote from their marketing material:

Altai is the habital of maral - the animal which is considered to be the symbol of health and sexual strength. Panto hematogenic substance is actively used at the Belokurikha resort in the treatment of various diseases. Effective technologies are created on the basis of applying panto extract.

Therapeutic muds are also widely used at the resort. Medical use mud tampons and applications shows successful results in the treatment of internal diseases, genital and musculoskeletal systems. Herbal teas made from vital Altai herbs are used in the complex treatment of different diseases and give sufficient results during rehabilitation programmes. We also apply herbal decoction and tincture microclysters, phytobathes and mini phytosaunas.


Clive's closing remarks today were "it's going well mate, but it's bloody hard work!"   I look forward to his closing remarks after he's had his herbal decoction tomorrow evening!

Signing off for CD and Ces.


Overall and Category Position of Car No 72

Bear with me on this because I'm still trying to unravel the scoring process.   On the official sites, there appears to be a 1st, 2nd, 3rd Overall Position within each Category, rather than across all cars.   Then, even more puzzling, there are 2x 1sts, 2x 2nds, 2x 3rds under Class Position within each Category.  Perhaps there are secret classes within the 3 listed Categories.

Have a look for yourself ....  http://www.pekingparis.com/results.php  ... you will see, for example, that in yesterday's results, Clive was listed as
          Overall Position - 15 and Class Position - 9 (Vintageants). 
But then Car No 27, also in Vintageants, was listed as
          Overall Position - 26 and Class Position - 9.  
Not too big a deal, I hear you say, but then the Irish crew in Car No 104 (who are in Classics, not in Vintageants) were also listed
          Overall Position - 15 and Class Position - 9
that is, the very same as Clive and Ces.   Hmmm ...

Getting to the bottom of this from the other side of the world is not easy.   But I did download the times from the official site into Excel and re-sorted them ... firstly using total cumulative times across the entire field ... and then using cumulative times within Vintageants Category.   On this basis, Car No 72 would be 24th Overall and 15th in Vintageants Category.   But I'll await confirmation from Clive before going to the FIA.